Keep an eye out for spots, discoloration, parts of the plants dying, or moldy growth on leaves or fruit. Cane blight is a common reason for the dieback of canes on raspberries. Disease lesions near the base of the cane cutoff water and nutrient transport to the rest of the cane, causing it to die. In ripe fruit, gray mold may not appear until after picking and spreads quickly in a container.
To manage this disease, plant in narrow rows, remove weeds often and thin plantings that have become overgrown. In strawberry patches with a history of gray mold, remove and discard all straw in early spring. Replace with fresh straw or other organic mulch. In raspberries, phytophthora crown and root rot causes canes to die back, due to an infection at the crown, or base, of the canes. The crown is located at or just beneath the soil surface.
Phytophthora infection causes brown discoloration on the outside and inside of the crown. It thrives in wet soils. Positive confirmation of phytophthora infection is necessary before diagnosing and treating it.
Dig up and submit an infected crown to the Plant Disease Clinic for diagnosis. Hot days with strong sunlight may cause sunscald on berries forming white or colorless drupelets the small, individual, seed-containing parts of each berry.
The white drupelets will be flavorless, but there is no harm in eating them. Once the weather cools, plants will produce normal berries. Heat can also cause berries to ripen faster than you can pick them, which can attract insects. Pick ripe fruit immediately. Very few raspberry varieties are completely hardy in Minnesota. Even hardy varieties can exhibit symptoms of winter injury following severe winters.
Winter injury can also occur after winters when the temperature fluctuates between mild and extremely cold. Winter injury is often confused with cane blight, but it has symptoms that are different from other diseases. Raspberries that produce flowers and fruit on first year canes primocanes will always show some dieback in the spring. Dieback in fall-bearing raspberries is normal and is not considered winter injury. Flowering in primocanes always starts at the tips of the canes and later flowers sprout lower in the cane.
Any part of the cane that produces flowers will die in the winter. Always choose varieties that are suitable for your zone in Minnesota. Leaf spot, spur blight, cane blight and anthracnose can make raspberries more susceptible to winter injury.
Healthy plants will survive the Minnesota winters better. All rights reserved. The University of Minnesota is an equal opportunity educator and employer. Home Yard and garden Find plants Fruit Growing raspberries in the home garden.
Quick facts Raspberry plants need full sun to produce the most fruit. They're best pollinated by bees. Prune annually. Raspberries will start producing fruit a year after planting. Rabbits love to eat the canes in winter. A chicken wire fence will help prevent rabbit damage. Selecting plants Purchase disease-free plants from a reputable nursery.
Viruses can be readily transmitted into a planting through infected plants, and there is no way to cure the plants once they are infected. Destroy infected plants to control the spread of viruses. Raspberry plants can be purchased as dormant bare-root plants or as potted plants. Open all Close all. What are primocanes and floricanes? Choosing raspberry plants How different raspberry varieties grow Red and yellow raspberries produce many new canes from the base of the floricanes and from buds produced on the roots that become underground stems or stolons.
Varieties The University of Minnesota Agricultural Experiment Station has been testing varieties for many years to find those best suited to our climate. Early ripening. Very good for freezing. Autumn Britten Primocane Very good to good Very large, firm, flavorful berries. Boyne Floricane Very good to good Very hardy. Produces deer red, medium size, tender, sweet berries.
Caroline Primocane Good to fair Very large, rich, sweet berries. Good for freezing. Encore Floricane Very good to fair Sturdy, vigorous, nearly thornless upright plants produce a late season crop of large, sweet, firm berries.
Festival Floricane Very good to good Nearly thornless, productive plants. Less vigorous. Medium bright red berries. Heritage Primocane Very good to good Large, bright red, super-sweet berries on vigorous, upright canes. Killarney Floricane Very good to good So productive it will weigh down the upright canes. Firm, sweet fruit. Disease resistant. Latham UMN variety Floricane Very good to good Vigorous plants produce lots of large, sweet, firm, bright red berries.
Nova Floricane Very good to good Very hardy plant with fewer thorns. Medium size, firm, bright red berries with a good, slightly tart flavor. Polana Primocane Good Large, firm berries with good flavor. Variety Color Fruiting type Hardiness zone 4 to zone 3 Description Anne Yellow Primocane Good to fair Widely adapted plants produce pale, yellow, very sweet, mild berries.
Heat tolerant. Black Hawk Black Floricane Fair to poor Vigorous plants produce lots of rich, sweet, firm black raspberries. Disease resistant and heat tolerant. Bristol Black Floricane Fair to poor Vigorous, upright canes produce large clusters of firm black raspberries.
Excellent flavor. Fallgold Yellow Primocane Very good to good Produces large, golden, firm, sweet berries. Very hardy. Honeyqueen Yellow Floricane Good to fair Honey-sweet, peach colored soft berries are produced on arched, spiny canes. Royalty Purple Floricane Fair to poor Vigorous plants are heavy producers. Pick red for bright raspberry flavor, or purple for sweet, rich flavor.
Planting Early spring is the best time to plant raspberries. Till the soil well before planting. Planting and caring for new plants. Watering and support. How to keep your raspberries healthy and productive. Fertilizer, mulch and weeding Fertilizer and mulch Raspberry plants are heavy feeders and generally need to be fertilized. On established plantings, apply the same rate for continued plant nutrition.
Retain as much of the sucker's root system and surrounding soil as possible. Fill in the hole made by removing the sucker. Either put the sucker into a new garden location immediately or plant it into a container for eventual garden transplant. Choose a site with well-draining soil or create a raised bed for the transplants.
For hedgerow plantings, space red raspberry plants 2 feet apart in rows 8 feet from each other. Purple and black raspberries need 3 to 4 feet between plants in rows, and 8 to 10 feet between rows.
If you are digging up plants in the fall, care for them in containers through the winter and plant them in the garden in spring to early summer. Plant them 1 inch deeper than they were in the container. Garden raspberries need moisture in the summer and drier conditions during winter.
Container plants shouldn't ever completely dry out. Canes need annual pruning, which depends on the fruiting habits. Sterilize your pruning tool with 1 part bleach to 9 parts water for five minutes, allowing it to air-dry before pruning. Cut summer-bearing canes that have fruited back to the ground to allow new canes to grow. Cut the new canes back to 6 feet tall at the end of the first season's growth.
Some types of raspberries produce fall crops that bloom and form berries at the top of the cane. This is a great time to pull up all the weeds and grass that have invaded your raspberries over the summer months. Adding a generous layer of mulch will help to prevent weed growth and keep the plants hydrated. Some gardeners also recommend adding lime in the fall. Fertilize, support and water. Fertilize your raspberry plants in early spring with an organic fertilizer of your choice.
If you're currently using stakes to support your raspberries, think about using a more permanent structure, such as a fence or trellis. Perhaps purchase a soaker hose for next season to keep the roots watered without soaking the rest of the plant, which will reduce chances of rust.
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